The tiresome journey through the rain ploughed road to Gavi made my fellow traveler, an armchair adventurer, rethink our scheduled mission. But after the gruelling yet thrilling treks through the lush green wilderness of the Sahyadris, we returned wholehearted longing for many more trips like that through the same trekking paths. Our objective was clear and simple - to look for the reasons how suddenly this place Gavi and the surrounding forests caught the attention of international tourists.
Gavi lies on the border of Kerala’s Pathanamthitta and Idukki districts, both touching the western outskirts of Tamil Nadu. Though we belonged to the neighbouring districts, the territory was so unfamiliar that our frame of reference turned inadequate, becoming outsiders in our own backyard. From Vandiperiyar, a town on the NH 212 connecting Kollam to Madurai, one deviates to the right and thereafter it is all large expanse of tropical wet evergreen forests on both sides.
These forests are on the other side of the famous pilgrim destination Sabarimala but the dense forests in between make them mutually inaccessible. On a clear day one can easily spot the temple with its golden mast and the 18 steps to the sanctum from quite a few locations on the jungle road to Gavi. When millions of pilgrims throng the forest trail on the other side during December to January, the rain forests on this side offer a safe sanctuary to the wild life.
Our exploration started with a bungalow built more than a century back by English planters at a place called Pachakanam (meaning green forest) on the periphery of Gavi. A lovingly maintained 19th century bungalow that still retains its charm and character with exposed ceiling beams, Georgian water boiler and marble walk-in bathtubs was our home for the first two days. When Alexander Douglas Vincent, a legendary British planter of the High Ranges of Kerala finally left for good to his native England, he could have entertained doubts whether the Downton Estate, his prized possession of the manicured cardamom plantation of 600 acres, will be in caring hands.
But the tough and hardy native planters who stepped into his shoes ensured that high quality cardamom is continued to be produced here. They have also painstakingly preserved the trees, pathways, the estate bungalow, and even the Englishman’s cedar rifle rack in its colonial grandeur. Locally known as Pachakanam, this estate situated on the fringes of the buffer zone of Periyar Tiger Reserve is home to a wide variety of wild life.
The day-treks in the deep forests of Meenar, Pullumedu and Gavi are organised by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. The trek was for about 12 kms inside the thick forest, but the old and the weary had an option of a soft trek of about one hour. Our guide was Ramesh, a second generation Srilankan of Tamil origin whose parents were resettled in the cardamom plantation of the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. While most of the original re-settlers are working in the government owned plantation, the youngsters are engaged in the eco tourism initiative as guides, cooks and gardeners.
We were all eyes and ears taking care not to miss the slightest movement in the woods. Recent pugmarks of gaur, tiger, sambar deer and elephants were all around, though the animals themselves remained elusive. But we saw the remains of a bison, horns, skull and bones, a recent prey to tiger (or was it the poachers?). Particularly amusing was the black langurs that stared at us and jumped from tree to tree showing off their acrobatic skills. Among other wild life that can be spotted here are the giant squirrel, lion-tailed macaques, elephants, barking deer and bear. As we trekked deep into the forest, we came across many fascinating aspects of nature at its best.
Weeks before the trip we were told about the nesting of the Great Malabar Hornbill near the cardamom estate and from the time we reached Gavi we were looking for the great photo op. Luckily the male bird kept to its scheduled visits to its nest, a gaping hole on a towering tree. Hornbills are spectacular denizens of the tropics. Having a close encounter with a Great Indian Hornbill is a peak experience. The heavy whoosh of its wings recalls a jet in flight. And then there is the huge bill, the hoary casque and the striking plumage pattern. The Great Malabar Hornbill (malamuzhakki vezhambal)
The Great Indian Hornbill is monogamous. Female hornbill remains imprisoned in her nest until the chicks are developed relying on the male to bring food. During this period the female undergoes a complete moult. A freezing thought crossed our mind. What will happen to the featherless mother and the half developed chick if the male falls prey to the poachers? These are birds to be remembered even after we have moved on.
The most sensational part of our expedition was the night safaris that gave us ample opportunities for wild life viewing. Ayyappan our guide cum elephant chaser cum jeep driver (also namesake of the Lord of Sabarimala) used the powerful searchlight to spot the nocturnal animals. He knew the forest as the back of his palm, is an excellent spotter of wild animals, and knows their watering holes and the routine hideouts. At one spot when we got out of the jeep looking for animals, quite unexpectedly a herd of gaurs crossed our path and stood on the other side staring at the intruders in their territory. We were so excited that we did not even attempt to lift the camera and shoot.
Though we could spot sambar deer, giant squirrels and the Nilgiri Tahr during the safari the big cat eluded us. We should not expect the predictability of urban life in the wild. Pachakanam is surely an unforgettable place. As the dusk stretches in to the silence of the night one can feel the presence of wild life, an experience that cannot be explained in words. If one wants to experience the place one has to get up and go there oneself.●
How to Reach
Gavi and Pachakanam, on the border of Idukki and Pathanamthitta districts of Kerala, can be reached by turning westwards at Vandiperiyar on NH 212. Pachakanam is 22 km from the turning and Gavi 28 km. Vandiperiyar is 15 km from Kumily and 95 km from Kottayam, the nearest rail head. From Kochi International Airport, Gavi is 208 km by road.
The only lodging facility in the forest area is Green Mansions, offered by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation under its ‘Gavi Eco Tourism’ project. Day time package including trekking, spice plantation visit, boating, breakfast, lunch and evening tea is Rs 850/pax. The Overnight package including Jungle Camps –stay in tents--trekking, boating, spice plantation visit, night safari with full board is Rs 2000/ pax.
Phones: Gavi 9947492399/ 9947549957; 04869. 252118/ 062 (connectivity poor); or Corporate office of Kerala Forest Development Corporation, Kottayam: 0481. 2581204/ 205, fax: 0481.2581338, e-mail: mail@greenmansions.co.in
Gavi lies on the border of Kerala’s Pathanamthitta and Idukki districts, both touching the western outskirts of Tamil Nadu. Though we belonged to the neighbouring districts, the territory was so unfamiliar that our frame of reference turned inadequate, becoming outsiders in our own backyard. From Vandiperiyar, a town on the NH 212 connecting Kollam to Madurai, one deviates to the right and thereafter it is all large expanse of tropical wet evergreen forests on both sides.
These forests are on the other side of the famous pilgrim destination Sabarimala but the dense forests in between make them mutually inaccessible. On a clear day one can easily spot the temple with its golden mast and the 18 steps to the sanctum from quite a few locations on the jungle road to Gavi. When millions of pilgrims throng the forest trail on the other side during December to January, the rain forests on this side offer a safe sanctuary to the wild life.
Our exploration started with a bungalow built more than a century back by English planters at a place called Pachakanam (meaning green forest) on the periphery of Gavi. A lovingly maintained 19th century bungalow that still retains its charm and character with exposed ceiling beams, Georgian water boiler and marble walk-in bathtubs was our home for the first two days. When Alexander Douglas Vincent, a legendary British planter of the High Ranges of Kerala finally left for good to his native England, he could have entertained doubts whether the Downton Estate, his prized possession of the manicured cardamom plantation of 600 acres, will be in caring hands.
But the tough and hardy native planters who stepped into his shoes ensured that high quality cardamom is continued to be produced here. They have also painstakingly preserved the trees, pathways, the estate bungalow, and even the Englishman’s cedar rifle rack in its colonial grandeur. Locally known as Pachakanam, this estate situated on the fringes of the buffer zone of Periyar Tiger Reserve is home to a wide variety of wild life.
The day-treks in the deep forests of Meenar, Pullumedu and Gavi are organised by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. The trek was for about 12 kms inside the thick forest, but the old and the weary had an option of a soft trek of about one hour. Our guide was Ramesh, a second generation Srilankan of Tamil origin whose parents were resettled in the cardamom plantation of the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. While most of the original re-settlers are working in the government owned plantation, the youngsters are engaged in the eco tourism initiative as guides, cooks and gardeners.
We were all eyes and ears taking care not to miss the slightest movement in the woods. Recent pugmarks of gaur, tiger, sambar deer and elephants were all around, though the animals themselves remained elusive. But we saw the remains of a bison, horns, skull and bones, a recent prey to tiger (or was it the poachers?). Particularly amusing was the black langurs that stared at us and jumped from tree to tree showing off their acrobatic skills. Among other wild life that can be spotted here are the giant squirrel, lion-tailed macaques, elephants, barking deer and bear. As we trekked deep into the forest, we came across many fascinating aspects of nature at its best.
Weeks before the trip we were told about the nesting of the Great Malabar Hornbill near the cardamom estate and from the time we reached Gavi we were looking for the great photo op. Luckily the male bird kept to its scheduled visits to its nest, a gaping hole on a towering tree. Hornbills are spectacular denizens of the tropics. Having a close encounter with a Great Indian Hornbill is a peak experience. The heavy whoosh of its wings recalls a jet in flight. And then there is the huge bill, the hoary casque and the striking plumage pattern. The Great Malabar Hornbill (malamuzhakki vezhambal)
The Great Indian Hornbill is monogamous. Female hornbill remains imprisoned in her nest until the chicks are developed relying on the male to bring food. During this period the female undergoes a complete moult. A freezing thought crossed our mind. What will happen to the featherless mother and the half developed chick if the male falls prey to the poachers? These are birds to be remembered even after we have moved on.
The most sensational part of our expedition was the night safaris that gave us ample opportunities for wild life viewing. Ayyappan our guide cum elephant chaser cum jeep driver (also namesake of the Lord of Sabarimala) used the powerful searchlight to spot the nocturnal animals. He knew the forest as the back of his palm, is an excellent spotter of wild animals, and knows their watering holes and the routine hideouts. At one spot when we got out of the jeep looking for animals, quite unexpectedly a herd of gaurs crossed our path and stood on the other side staring at the intruders in their territory. We were so excited that we did not even attempt to lift the camera and shoot.
Though we could spot sambar deer, giant squirrels and the Nilgiri Tahr during the safari the big cat eluded us. We should not expect the predictability of urban life in the wild. Pachakanam is surely an unforgettable place. As the dusk stretches in to the silence of the night one can feel the presence of wild life, an experience that cannot be explained in words. If one wants to experience the place one has to get up and go there oneself.●
How to Reach
Gavi and Pachakanam, on the border of Idukki and Pathanamthitta districts of Kerala, can be reached by turning westwards at Vandiperiyar on NH 212. Pachakanam is 22 km from the turning and Gavi 28 km. Vandiperiyar is 15 km from Kumily and 95 km from Kottayam, the nearest rail head. From Kochi International Airport, Gavi is 208 km by road.
The only lodging facility in the forest area is Green Mansions, offered by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation under its ‘Gavi Eco Tourism’ project. Day time package including trekking, spice plantation visit, boating, breakfast, lunch and evening tea is Rs 850/pax. The Overnight package including Jungle Camps –stay in tents--trekking, boating, spice plantation visit, night safari with full board is Rs 2000/ pax.
Phones: Gavi 9947492399/ 9947549957; 04869. 252118/ 062 (connectivity poor); or Corporate office of Kerala Forest Development Corporation, Kottayam: 0481. 2581204/ 205, fax: 0481.2581338, e-mail: mail@greenmansions.co.in
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