There is Magic in the Air of Koviloor

(Fr.Johns-striped Tshirt, near the wooden cross where he meditates)

Father Johns, a Capuchin monk is staying all alone in this hideaway village 6500ft above sea level raising garlic, broccoli and potatoes while doing his doctoral thesis on the Book of Job. On asking what brought him to this remote place called Kovilur, 50kms away from Munnar with hardly any one to talk to, his answer was insightful. “One should live in touch with the earth. We are losing that. We need to renew ourselves by coming to places such as this”.

Vattavada Panchayat is the remotest Panchayat of Kerala comprising of 3 villages, the most populous ones being Kovilur and Kottakambur. To reach this part of Idukki District one has to cross pockets of Tamiladu territory butting in to the geography of Kerala. Located on the fringes of Pampadum Shola forests the area is ideal for grandes (grandes grandiola) cultivation, a fast growing softwood tree used for making paper pulp.

Pampadumshola is India's youngest and smallest National Park with an area of just 12 sq kms where it has some of the world's rarest butterflies. Ten km away you have the Kurinji Sanctuary where millions of Neelakurinji (Strobilanthes Kunthiana) bloom once in twelve years. The whole region will turn in to blue mountains during the time.

The road to Kovilur from Munnar passes through some of the most beautiful scenes in the region- the rolling grasslands of the Indo-Swiss Farm at Mattupetty, soothing green of vast tea estates, the Kundla reservoir and the gently undulating misty hills. Koviloor is on the Kerlala side of the Sahyadris while Kodaikanal is on the other. A new road connecting Kochi to Kodai via Kovilur, Klavara is fast getting ready which will save about 70kms from the present arduous and circuitous route via Pooppara, Bodimet and Theni

If Munnar is Kerala’s most popular hill station on account of its salubrious climate, Kovilur with its magnificent charm and rarefied atmosphere remains unexploited. Lack of holiday facilities keeps the tourists at bay. Though there are one or two small private resorts on the way there are hardly any hotels or restaurants beyond the Top Station. The tea estates and the colonial air slowly disappear and you are left to commune with nature. The peaceful environment and the tranquility that it provides make it the perfect serenity spot to rejuvenate and revive the most jaded of travellers.

We got a modest accommodation in a Catholic School run by Carmelite fathers of the Aluva province. Fr. Vinceachen, a CMI priest with a mission, heads the School which is set up with the noble intention of educating the less privileged and those isolated from the mainstream of civilization. The dominant student population of the school is from Scheduled Tribes and Castes. The people of these hubs are illiterate and strongly superstitious in their beliefs and enlightenment through education is the only escape route. There are some voluntary Non-Governmental agencies working among the tribals imparting vocational training for equipping themselves.

We befriended a few locals and hence had the privilege of visiting some beautiful locations usually unknown to outsiders. There are many spots ideal for a day picnicking beside a crystal clear mountain stream or for wild life watching. It was harvest time and the vast carpets of red chillies spread out in the sun for drying was a rare sight. The vegetables of Kovilur especially carrot, garlic, beans, cabbage and cauliflower command higher prices because of their premium quality. Most of the farmers are bonded to traditional merchants who lend money to them for cultivation.

Kovilur and the surrounding areas offer a perfect summer hideout that can ring in foreign exchange if the tourism planners care to. Munnar was also once a sleepy little hamlet, until the Scottish planters discovered it and later the British developed it into one of southern India’s most popular hill stations. Kovilur too has all the potentials to be developed as the ‘Switzerland of India’.

Agasthyakoodam The Herbal Mountain

For a long time I was looking for a small cohesive group for this long cherished but much postponed trek to Agasthykoodam. Unless the fellow travelers are on the same wavelength I was sure that the three days of an otherwise heady trek to the second highest peak in Kerala, will turn disastrous. Finally two veteran journalists and two young executives of varied interests made the team perfect. Agasthykoodam is a legendary herbal mountain located 60 Kms North East of Trivandrum on the southernmost tip of the Sahya ranges. A journey to Agasthyakoodam, believed to be the abode of sage Agasthya, is a way to rejuvenate your body and soul. While it is a spiritual quest for some, for others it is a close encounter with nature at her pristine best.

We got the clearance from the Forest Department without any fuss. They had gone an extra mile in providing us with the assistance of two armed guards throughout our trek. In addition we availed the paid services of three other helpers from the local Eco Development Committee for carrying our provisions and cook for us for the next three days in the forest. The journey of around 30 km was carried out in two phases, starting from Bonacaud a sleepy tea county now in disarray. The tea estates are abandoned by the owners and the plantation workers have turned to either eco- tourism or illicit brewing for a living.To preserve the rich flora and fauna of Agasthyamala and the surrounding areas covering around 1025square kms, Agasthya Vanam Biological Park was established in 1992. The intention was to restore the degraded forests and restoring plant life. So you will get to see a large number of rare trees and exotic colorful orchids. More than two thousand varieties of rare herbs of medicinal value can be found here. Eighty percent of the plant species here are said to be unique to this region. No wonder Agasthyakoodam and its surrounding Western Ghats, constitute a complete ecosystem of bio-diversity.

We started early morning. The first phase of trekking was mainly through the plain forests and so not too strenuous. The sunrise among the hills and the trees was a glorious sight. After the first few miles we entered the dazzling grasslands dotted with trees, a welcome sight for our city-weary eyes. The elephant grass, at certain places, was as tall as ourselves and soon we realized that we should have worn full sleeves to escape their sharp blades. On the way we had to cross endless streams but the real challenges were Neyyar, Karamanayar and Vazhappinthiyar where we had to hop from rock to rock through the river bed or form a human chain to keep balance. And then there were the hills so steep that the forehead will touch the knees as you climb up and the cooling waterfalls to recharge your exhausted body and soul.

In the deep forest we met a tribal (Kani), with his companion dog, collecting herbs. He identified for us the famous herbs “Arogyapacha” “Chakkarakolli” and “Kallurukki” proven antidotes for debilitating diseases, diabetes and urinary calculus. But visitors be careful, as you are not allowed to take away any of the herbs or other forest produce. On the other hand the tribals seem to have a right for collection, may be on the confidence that they don’t exploit nature like the greedy outsider. I was told that there is a weekly market called “kanichantha” at Kottur near Vithura where the tribals sell their forest produce.

By late afternoon we reached Athirumala where there is an unmanned wireless station in a dilapidated building surrounded by a moat to dodge wild animals. Though there was a statutory warning exhibited on the building indicating its perilous condition we had no other alternative to spend the night. From Athirumala the towering summit and the surrounding mountains bathed in moonlight is a breathtaking sight. Our helpers cooked food for the night and we celebrated the evening with campfire and “Cholkazhcha” (poetry recital) from the works of Kadammanitta, Ayyappa Panicker and to top it all Agasthyahridayam of Prof.V.Madhusoodanan Nair.

The climb to the summit began early next day. It is a strenuous stretch where every step is an effort and some times one has to use all the four limbs. At one or two places there are ropes tied to huge nails driven into rocks to prop the climbers. But the efforts are amply compensated by every glance that reveals a new scene of the sweeping scenery of the mighty Sahya ranges. As one climbs the remaining stretch of the steep rocky heights, the beautiful Sahyadri panorama hosts a feast for your eyes.

Pongalappara is a halt before you reach the summit and many devotees do a ritual ‘pongala' here. At Pongalappara we came across people coming from Tamilnadu trekking through Papanasam and Ambasamudram. In fact the eastern slope of Agasthymala stretches to Tirunelveli and the southern side to Kanyakumari districts of Tamil Nadu.

Finally the summit; at 1868 m above sea level we were walking above the clouds soaked in the ambience as time flies. There is a large sculpture of Sage Agasthya installed by Swami Vishnudevananda in the recent past. We were atop the mountain revered by both Buddhists and Hindus, believed to be the abode of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara as well as of the sage Agastya, a disciple of Shiva, the mythical place referred in the Tamil Sangam literature as Potalaka.

Rather reluctantly we began our trek downhill. Pechippara Dam, Tirunelveli town and Ambasamudram were clearly visible from many places. On the way down our mobiles started ringing reminding us that once again we were in the range of civilization.

How to reach Agasthyakoodam: The nearest railway station as well as airport is Tiruvananthapuram and Agasthyakoodam is located at a distance of about 80 km by road. Once you reach Tiruvananthapuram, you can avail of any local means of transportation like buses and taxis to reach Bonacaud from where the trekking starts. Forest Department gives permission to visit Agasthyakoodam only during December to April and the passes are limited.

A Trip through the Backwaters

After Atal Behari Vajpayee, the then Prime Minister, had opted Kumarakom for his annual December vacationing in the year 2000 to escape from a winter of discontent in Delhi, the backwater tourism of Kerala got a sudden fillip. He had taken a week-long rejuvenating holiday in Kumarakom, the picturesque resort on the edge of the Vembanad lake in Kerala's magical backwaters. Kumarakom is also famous for his "Kumarakom musings", his new year thoughts in the year 2000. Kumarakom was made internationally famous by Arundhati Roy's "The God of small things".Now there are hundreds of Kettuvalloms (houseboats) carrying tourists across the Punnamada, Vembanad, Kayamkulam and Ashtamudi lakes all of which are interconnected by intricate narrow water ways.A lovely house on the riverside
We started our trip from Kollam on the deck of a canopied Tourism Corporation’s boat at 10 in the morning. After the wide expanse of the Ashtamudi lake and the Kayamkulam back water, we entered a long stretch of narrow canals with small houses on both sides. These serene waterways are fringed by palm groves and paddy fields and offer a striking spectacle of the rustic life. Here the life revolves around water. Children learn to swim before they walk. They learn to row boats before they bicycle. The cruise takes you along canals past scenic islands, offering sublime views of coconut and paddy fields, chinese fishing nets and toddy tappers at work. A rich farmer by the side of his farm
There was a short stop over at Vallikavu, the Ashram of Mata Amritanandamayi popularly known as Amma, where most of the foreign tourists got down to rejoin the next days’ trip. The lunch was at Thrikunnapuzha close to the NTPC’s Rajiv Gandhi Combined Cycle mega power plant at Cheppad. The lunch was served in plantain leaves and one had the choice of a variety of fish. By about 4 in the evening we reached the Punnamada lake in Alleppey District, famous for its boat races, houseboats, coir products and fish. Alleppey or Alappuzha remains prominent on the tourist trail of Kerala as one of the major centers for backwater boat trips. Alappuzha is also known as the "Venice of the East" and it was here that traders from across the seven seas came in the past in search of black gold and souvenirs. Lush green paddy fields
We stayed overnight at Alleppey and made a visit to the beach early morning. Alleppey was once the busiest coast south of Mumbai, and its canals and backwaters helped in the passage of cargo - be it tea, spices, timber or other produces from the hills - to the sea. The lighthouse and the pier helped the boats ferry across, facilitating trade in their own way. Today, the 1000 ft long pier at Alleppey beach, built in 1862 by Captain Hugh Crawford is a mere skeleton of its past. A lone Farm house
After a quick breakfast we continued our voyage through the serene waters up to the Northern Kuttanad which is not much exposed to the tourists. This place is the rice bowl of Kerala, one of the very few places in the world where farming is done below sea level. Kuttanad is a land of lush paddy fields and stretches for 75 Km sandwiched between the sea and the hills. These paddy fields remind the visitor of the famous dikes of Holland. A striking example of the indigenous agricultural engineering know-how, here cultivation and habitation are made possible at four to ten feet below the sea level. For this purpose extensive land has been reclaimed from the backwaters and is protected by dikes built around it. The beauty of this part of Kerala is not merely in the backwaters, but the man-made islands that you will find amidst the waters. These islands are hedged by mud walls, a haven for migratory birds, with paddy fields inundated with water throughout the year. Alleppey's allure is the backwaters and a leisurely cruise in these serene waters is a memorable experience. Water liliesHow to Reach: Kochi is the nearest Airport and Alleppey is just 90 minutes drive. One can either hire a house boat exclusively for oneself or join the conducted trips of District Tourism Prmotion Committee (DTPC). Alternatively From Trivandrum Airport one can go to Kollam which is about one hour by road and then take the boat trip to Alleppey and beyond.

The Other Side of Sabarimala

The tiresome journey through the rain ploughed road to Gavi made my fellow traveler, an armchair adventurer, rethink our scheduled mission. But after the gruelling yet thrilling treks through the lush green wilderness of the Sahyadris, we returned wholehearted longing for many more trips like that through the same trekking paths. Our objective was clear and simple - to look for the reasons how suddenly this place Gavi and the surrounding forests caught the attention of international tourists.

Gavi lies on the border of Kerala’s Pathanamthitta and Idukki districts, both touching the western outskirts of Tamil Nadu. Though we belonged to the neighbouring districts, the territory was so unfamiliar that our frame of reference turned inadequate, becoming outsiders in our own backyard. From Vandiperiyar, a town on the NH 212 connecting Kollam to Madurai, one deviates to the right and thereafter it is all large expanse of tropical wet evergreen forests on both sides.
These forests are on the other side of the famous pilgrim destination Sabarimala but the dense forests in between make them mutually inaccessible. On a clear day one can easily spot the temple with its golden mast and the 18 steps to the sanctum from quite a few locations on the jungle road to Gavi. When millions of pilgrims throng the forest trail on the other side during December to January, the rain forests on this side offer a safe sanctuary to the wild life.
Our exploration started with a bungalow built more than a century back by English planters at a place called Pachakanam (meaning green forest) on the periphery of Gavi. A lovingly maintained 19th century bungalow that still retains its charm and character with exposed ceiling beams, Georgian water boiler and marble walk-in bathtubs was our home for the first two days. When Alexander Douglas Vincent, a legendary British planter of the High Ranges of Kerala finally left for good to his native England, he could have entertained doubts whether the Downton Estate, his prized possession of the manicured cardamom plantation of 600 acres, will be in caring hands.

But the tough and hardy native planters who stepped into his shoes ensured that high quality cardamom is continued to be produced here. They have also painstakingly preserved the trees, pathways, the estate bungalow, and even the Englishman’s cedar rifle rack in its colonial grandeur. Locally known as Pachakanam, this estate situated on the fringes of the buffer zone of Periyar Tiger Reserve is home to a wide variety of wild life.
The day-treks in the deep forests of Meenar, Pullumedu and Gavi are organised by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. The trek was for about 12 kms inside the thick forest, but the old and the weary had an option of a soft trek of about one hour. Our guide was Ramesh, a second generation Srilankan of Tamil origin whose parents were resettled in the cardamom plantation of the Kerala Forest Development Corporation. While most of the original re-settlers are working in the government owned plantation, the youngsters are engaged in the eco tourism initiative as guides, cooks and gardeners.
We were all eyes and ears taking care not to miss the slightest movement in the woods. Recent pugmarks of gaur, tiger, sambar deer and elephants were all around, though the animals themselves remained elusive. But we saw the remains of a bison, horns, skull and bones, a recent prey to tiger (or was it the poachers?). Particularly amusing was the black langurs that stared at us and jumped from tree to tree showing off their acrobatic skills. Among other wild life that can be spotted here are the giant squirrel, lion-tailed macaques, elephants, barking deer and bear. As we trekked deep into the forest, we came across many fascinating aspects of nature at its best.

Weeks before the trip we were told about the nesting of the Great Malabar Hornbill near the cardamom estate and from the time we reached Gavi we were looking for the great photo op. Luckily the male bird kept to its scheduled visits to its nest, a gaping hole on a towering tree. Hornbills are spectacular denizens of the tropics. Having a close encounter with a Great Indian Hornbill is a peak experience. The heavy whoosh of its wings recalls a jet in flight. And then there is the huge bill, the hoary casque and the striking plumage pattern. The Great Malabar Hornbill (malamuzhakki vezhambal)

The Great Indian Hornbill is monogamous. Female hornbill remains imprisoned in her nest until the chicks are developed relying on the male to bring food. During this period the female undergoes a complete moult. A freezing thought crossed our mind. What will happen to the featherless mother and the half developed chick if the male falls prey to the poachers? These are birds to be remembered even after we have moved on.
The most sensational part of our expedition was the night safaris that gave us ample opportunities for wild life viewing. Ayyappan our guide cum elephant chaser cum jeep driver (also namesake of the Lord of Sabarimala) used the powerful searchlight to spot the nocturnal animals. He knew the forest as the back of his palm, is an excellent spotter of wild animals, and knows their watering holes and the routine hideouts. At one spot when we got out of the jeep looking for animals, quite unexpectedly a herd of gaurs crossed our path and stood on the other side staring at the intruders in their territory. We were so excited that we did not even attempt to lift the camera and shoot.
Though we could spot sambar deer, giant squirrels and the Nilgiri Tahr during the safari the big cat eluded us. We should not expect the predictability of urban life in the wild. Pachakanam is surely an unforgettable place. As the dusk stretches in to the silence of the night one can feel the presence of wild life, an experience that cannot be explained in words. If one wants to experience the place one has to get up and go there oneself.●
How to Reach
Gavi and Pachakanam, on the border of Idukki and Pathanamthitta districts of Kerala, can be reached by turning westwards at Vandiperiyar on NH 212. Pachakanam is 22 km from the turning and Gavi 28 km. Vandiperiyar is 15 km from Kumily and 95 km from Kottayam, the nearest rail head. From Kochi International Airport, Gavi is 208 km by road.
The only lodging facility in the forest area is Green Mansions, offered by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation under its ‘Gavi Eco Tourism’ project. Day time package including trekking, spice plantation visit, boating, breakfast, lunch and evening tea is Rs 850/pax. The Overnight package including Jungle Camps –stay in tents--trekking, boating, spice plantation visit, night safari with full board is Rs 2000/ pax.
Phones: Gavi 9947492399/ 9947549957; 04869. 252118/ 062 (connectivity poor); or Corporate office of Kerala Forest Development Corporation, Kottayam: 0481. 2581204/ 205, fax: 0481.2581338, e-mail: mail@greenmansions.co.in